Nestled in the northeastern corner of picturesque Guangxi province is Longjitian a little piece of paradise away from the tourist mecca that is Yangshuo. Please don’t take this to mean that Yangshuo is a place to be avoided, on the contrary, it is one of the most beautiful places in China and should be on the bucket list of every traveller coming to China. However I am fairly certain that after a few days, you will be seeking a more tranquil location.
An amazing feat of engineering, the rice terraces rise over 1000m affording stunning views over the paddies and villages below. Transport to the rice terraces ends at the foot of the trail that leads to the summit, providing you take the correct turns. When I was here they were constructing a cable car that would make this trail a thing of the past, but thankfully it appears be a long way from being completed. There are guesthouses dotted all over the terraces but the majority are located a tough but worthwhile 1 hour walk away from the entrance in the village of Tiantouzhai. As you navigate the dirt paths, through small villages comprising of stilt houses and chickens at every turn you are transported from average tourist to king of the hill as you survey the view below. Try to make sure you get to your hostel before sunset so you can enjoy the view with a cold beer as you rest your weary legs.
The best time to visit is in May when the rain leaves glistening reflections, October just before harvest or December when a thin blanket of snow covers the hills. In truth any time you visit you will inevitably be blown away by the sight that unravels before your very eyes.
The majority of tour groups will stay around Ping’an village, it is unlikely the better facilities on offer will be able to replace the peace and quiet you will loose from the throngs of Chinese tour groups. The 2 options within the rice terrace themselves are Dazhai 大寨 and Tiantouzhai 田头寨. Dazhai being at the base and Tiantouzhai being closer to the summit. For this reason alone, Tiantouzhai is a better place to stay, stunning views and easy access to the best walks.
Unsurprisingly the main activities here are hiking through the rice terraces and minority villages. The routes can vary from short 30 minute walks to more strenuous 4 to 5 hour hikes. All of the hostels will have detailed maps of available walks. The vast majority of the trails are clearly signposted, but a local guide can be hired for around 40yuan. It seems that at almost every turn there is a viewing point complete with a delightfully Chinglish name. However you can have just as much fun aimlessly meandering with your only focus being where you will stop for your afternoon beer.
Travel out to Longjitian can be arranged from almost every hostel in Yangshuo or Guilin, with hostels in Longjitian able to arrange the return. Although it can be done in a day trip, an overnight trip is far more rewarding, giving your more time to get away from it all and simply fall in love with the view.
